Tech Sheet 50 - ProFlex System

Recently I was fortunate enough to visit a few of our elite customers and witness their work and techniques with the ProFlex system. These craftsman have created and adapted techniques and applications through years of experience that have made them the success that they are today.

Please keep in mind that these professionals I am referring to are strictly performing work on high end leather for autos, furniture, and aircraft, ranging in value from a $2,000 chair to a $42,000,000 jet. Regardless of the user, they all faithfully perform the identical fundamental steps:

How simple are these steps? Sometimes too simple, in that we tend to forget they are the difference between a permanent job and a nightmare.

Are these steps time consuming? It's all relative to your fee. The following is mandatory to any successful job.

Prepping: Using a scotch brite pad or sand paper (400 to 600 grit), sand the entire surface area. Wipe down thoroughly with diluted Multi Clean. Wipe clear with pure water. Use Flex Solv to strip water borne print coat, then sand. Follow with diluted Multi Clean and wipe clear with pure water. You may loose during prepping the uniform embossed grain found on silicone surface leathers. Care should be taken but adhesion is your priority or don't do the job. Pay close attention to welts and folds. (Ideally you will want the piece being prepped to dry for 24 hours before continuing). We highly recommend, as always, to spot tape test for adhesion check.

Filtering: Filtering your color match should be performed for two reason: 1) To strain any foreign particle from your color; and 2) to achieve silky finish eliminating sand paper feel. Strain your color through a lint free rag followed with straining through a nylon hosiery (additional straining with nylon hosiery may only be necessary for very large jobs). Straining will eliminate clogging.

Thin even coats: First you must have a suitable gun and know how to adjust for optimum use. Thin your color match at this point using bottled water or methanol/water solution. The water and methanol will promote an even flow and coverage. To give you an idea of thinning you may end up applying 8 to 9 ultra-thin coats before achieving full coverage on extremely valuable work pieces. The goal is soft glove feel and finish. If you have problems in a rough finish and you have filtered your color as described above adjust your flow and pressure of liquid coming out of your gun. (It's drying before hitting the surface).

Your final coat, of course, will be your HIBASE with added FLAT and, if desired, SLIP. You can apply with last application of color or as a topcoat finish. Again the descriptive word is thin even coats.

Nothing I have mentioned here is new. As a matter of fact most of it you will find printed in numerous tech sheets. What is important is that you know how important these steps truly are. The work I have witnessed in the field is golden testament that the three steps above are mandatory to achieve absolute permanent perfect coverage and feel.

As I witnessed the work performed, there is no doubt that our Proflex Intermix System is one of the finest systems available. Although, what truly makes it work is those who understand it and have taken the time to learn it. I tip my hat to all of you who never settle for anything short of perfection.

I want to thank those professionals with whom I worked with. I cannot express how valuable that time is. From what I learned and witnessed in one day I encourage anyone in search of additional training to make arrangements now. The time and money spent will be peanuts compared to your future.

This was written to introduce the ProFlex Color System. It replaces Prima Flex, Vinyl Lacquer, Vinyl Color Concentrates, and Aqua Flex. The ProFlex system is a high performance water base used to recolor a very wide range of flexible materials. It uses the safest available technology for professional results. This technology complies with current and foreseeable transportation, safety, and environmental regulations.

Other important benefits include superior performance and safer handling as well as lower cost and easier colormatching. Enhanced cosmetics and durability are achieved using familiar techniques employed with older systems. For example, the iron repair method and hot graining work very well with the ProFlex colorants. Fine high line leather work is more easily accomplished due to the system flexibility. Enhanced color depth and transparency as well as much improved look and feel are simpler to produce. Users should review the revised Tech Sheet 30: Iron Repair Method as well as the following before using the ProFlex color system.

The ProFlex line employs the safest available technology to present the lowest achievable toxicity. However, IT STILL REQUIRES CAUTION AND RESPONSIBLE HANDLING. ADEQUATE VENTILATION AND RESPIRATORY PROTECTION ARE MANDATORY WITH THIS SYSTEM as is the case with all color systems provided by ethical manufacturers. Do not attempt to use this or any other professional coloring line unless you are committed to using adequate exhaust fans and proper organic vapor respirators all the time.

The system is built around eleven pure colors that are used to colormatch the work. The colors are called ProFlex COLOR INTERMIX. They are water reducible and are ready to spray on most manmade materials such as vinyl upholstery, flexible plastics, and nylon fiber. New to the system is a deep opaque brown, a transparent orange and new medium yellow called Brite Yellow. These are non lead or chromium containing colors and are light fast in severe southern exposure.

Many long term Flex Proof users will need to adapt from orange base colormatching for browns and reds due to restrictions on the obsolete moly and chrome colors. The good news is that high line color depth and richness are now easier to duplicate. The eight remaining colors are old standbys white, black, yellow oxide, red oxide, Brite red, violet, blue, and green.

Two clear blending vehicles are provide for more complex work. ProFlex LOBASE is used alone as a leather hold-out coat on damaged leather areas (CorFlex replacement). More importantly, it may also be used as a blending agent with COLOR INTERMIX to make a leather primer sealer (tie coat).

ProFlex HIBASE, the other clear blending agent, is used for topcoating work when finishing off complex colors, for color depth development over colorcoats in high wear areas, and in coloring exterior or severe service trim parts.

All of the above products produce a very high gloss finish which may be adjusted at any point with ProFlex FLAT. ProFlex FLAT significantly alters the cosmetics and feel of the finished work. We do not add FLAT at the factory so you can still do high gloss (wet look) restorations.

ProFlex SLIP is a general purpose slip additive that modifies the feel and enhances wear on all finishes. ProFlex FLOW is a non-foaming leveler that can be used to improve any water used to reduce the ProFlex blends to minimize edge pull, cratering, or orange peel effects.

Again, ProFlex colors are used on flexible surfaces. Think in terms of three broad categories of typical work. Many users will use three different systems built around one. Other specialists may never restore certain categories but should be aware of the possibilities. The following summarizes categories:

You will modify your spray body and preparation techniques depending on the above categories. Let's start with the most general type of work which accounts for roughly 80% of North American and 50% of European work: Category 2, Intermediate Surfaces.

For this work you need water, ProFlex COLOR INTERMIX, ProFlex FLAT, and ProFlex BARTEX. You should use MULTI CLEAN and have available ProFlex SLIP, FLOW, and FLEX SOLV. You will require typical spray equipment. Use of Prevals wastes material and severely limits the work quality. Mouth atomizer may be used, although we do recommend that their use be limited. A hair dryer or variable heat gun is highly desirable.

Provide excellent ventilation and/or use proper respiratory protection. If you have not done so, now is the time to review labels and Material Safety Data Sheets for the above products.

Prepare the surface using diluted MULTI CLEAN (one part in twenty to forty parts water). Scrub the surface using a clean wipe then wipe dry using another clean wipe. Rinse with clean water and wipe dry with a separate clean dry wipe. Launder these wipes before reusing. (See Tech Sheet 44: Multi Clean)

Prepare your colormatch using well-mixed, fresh ProFlex COLOR INTERMIX. Use a single or double action air brush, detail gun, or turbo sprayer. Try an initial pressure of 30 psi to observe spray characteristics. Modify pressure or air mix as required to achieve proper coverage.

CAUTION! The ProFlex line is about six times more concentrated than Vinyl Lacquer or Prima Flex. USE AS LITTLE MATERIAL AS POSSIBLE TO COLOR THE WORKPIECE! If you are used to mixing a pint, use less than three ounces or you will ruin the work. Regardless of how careful you are, some drying or skinning of the color within the bottle is unavoidable. This can be a real headache if proper precautions are not taken. We recommend that you pour colormatches one time through common nylon stocking material to filter out flakes, etc. Paper painters' filter funnels are not satisfactory.

Best results are achieved by spraying a very light, even tack coat (barely visible and finely atomized). Then follow up a minute or two later with an even light color coat. This technique dramatically improves wet out. If necessary use a heat gun to gently dry the surface to touch between each application of color. You can easily modify the surface sheen using air pressure and distance or simply add ProFlex FLAT (up to one part in ten of COLOR INTERMIX) for a final, very light topcoat. The later technique is useful when overprinting darker two-tones for a mottled effect.

You may dilute the spray during any step with water. It is best to use distilled or demineralized water (check your grocer) to which you have added two ounces of ProFlex FLOW per gallon of water.

Again, the key to achieving the most pleasing cosmetics and feel is to absolutely minimize the amount of COLOR INTERMIX applied. Use gentle heat (hot to skin) to rapidly dry between coats. If you observe poor wet-out, cratering, or edge pull, consider warming the surface slightly or boost pressure and air to increase atomization. If a light initial tack coat does not provide sufficient wet-out, simply wipe the tack coat with a damp rag and then apply the color coat.

Freshly coated surfaces (dry to touch) will accept a hot grain or iron grain particularly if you prime the area with a little ProFlex BARTEX. You may increase slip by adding ProFlex SLIP or FLAT to the final coat.

In severe service areas you can increase abrasion resistance and increase color depth by using ProFlex HIBASE in your final coat, as well as FLAT or SLIP. Simply dilute your final colormatch (made with COLOR INTERMIX) with an equal part of clear ProFlex HIBASE along with a little FLAT or SLIP. Remember that one of the best ways to knock down a high gloss surface is to lightly rub the dry surface with OOOO (4 ought) steel wool. It's a good idea to keep a bundle with you (available at any hardware store) until you become familiar with the ProFlex high gloss standard. Do not leave any loose steel fibers on the work. Remove them or they will rust and stain the work.

Most of the following refers to so-called dye work on leather. The logic and methods used apply as well to extremely light weight vinyls or urethane skin/foamed upholstery. You will be using a layering approach to duplicate processes used in the tannery or factory.

Professionals active on leather restoration commonly recognize a dozen types based on the manufacturing process. The ProFlex system was designed to duplicate finishes on coated leathers. That is, you cannot use this system on nude or aniline dyed and suede leathers without radically altering the surface. Repairs can only be done on nude leathers if the customer will accept an entire recolor of the whole piece or set. Check for nude leather by wetting a finger and applying it to the leather. If it absorbs and discolors temporarily there is no surface coating to restore. Next check for Scotchguarded or the newer fluorocarbon bonded finishes. Atomize some water on a hidden surface. If it is water repellent (beads up) do not refinish unless the repellent can be easily cleaned off with dilute Multi Clean. Otherwise you must strip the finish.

If surface finish can be restored, observe the work and think about it a minute. Where is it in the room or automobile? Will it get severe abrasion? Will it have strong light exposure? What happened to the original finish? Is it failing or fading? Why did the factory finish come off the driver seat wear bustle? Why did the Chairman of the Board's chair turn green and dull in one area?

It's simple to make an easily stretchable coating. It would be like a rubber finish and just about as appealing. You also want high abrasion resistance and flexural strength, all in an extremely thin finish (low profile) with crick. To achieve this you must use as little material as humanly possible and recolor the work with at least two and probably three separate coatings.

First repair the surface as you normally would using CA's, LFP, or ProFlex Leather Compounds. Then prep the surface with diluted Multi Clean as in Category 2 work above. If you have not removed the original finish, tape test it. If it fails the tape test your new finish will come off. Remove the original finish or warn the customer.

Use ProFlex LOBASE clear as a CorFlex replacement. That is, use a small Q-tip or brush to seal only damaged areas where the corium (felt like) layer is exposed.

For very soft completely stripped leathers mix a leather primer using one part ProFlex LOBASE with one to three parts ProFlex COLOR INTERMIX. Some specialists use the dominant hue COLOR INTERMIX. Others use the colormatch mixture. It's a matter of convenience although two and three tone effects are easier to achieve if you rely on using the pure dominant hue. LOBASE is rarely used in standard automotive work because the factory finish is rarely completely removed. The tannery tie coat is almost always left on the surface so the high stretch imparted by LOBASE is not needed. Adhesion will be less than satisfactory if you apply another tie coat.

Use suitable equipment as above to spray on a very thin coating of this leather primer/base coat. Use gentle heat from a heat gun to dry to touch. Don't worry about the extreme gloss at this point and don't pile on material to achieve color hiding. CAUTION! Over application at this point will yield a plastic finish. Less but even coating is better.

If you have not done so, make your COLOR INTERMIX colormatch from pure colors (use no LOBASE). Save the primer base coat liquid for other jobs. Once you have the colormatch, spray on light color coats (as thin as possible) until you achieve just adequate coverage (JAC). Then add sufficient ProFlex FLAT or SLIP to achieve the sheen, look, and feel desired with a light top coat. The final coat may be darkened for print effects. Keep a heat gun handy to dry each color coat to touch.

On high wear areas or to develop color depth, add an equal part of ProFlex HIBASE for a final colormatched topcoat with FLAT or SLIP added as needed. As above, any of the mixtures may be diluted with water modified with ProFlex FLOW. Once the base coat and color coat are in place you may extensively modify the topcoat mixture for cosmetics without affecting durability and performance. You may ruin the job, however, by piling on too much of a material that is six times more concentrated than Prima Flex. Proceed slowly with plenty of forethought.

If you observed color fading in the workpiece you should take a few precautions. First, try to encourage a total recolor. The area around the spot recolor will continue to fade whereas the ProFlex recolor will remain stable. Eventually, it will stand out like a sore thumb, as the original surrounding finish continues to fade. Alternatively, you can slow down the fading process in surrounding areas with a light coating of ProFlex HIBASE clear, suitably modified with FLAT or SLIP. It's not as satisfactory as a total recolor, but it helps reduce the harmful rays.

It is always a good idea to get a written acknowledgment from the customer or store if light fading is a problem and they won't approve the total recolor.

Finally, ProFlex HIBASE will always impart an extra measure of anti-fade whether used as a blending agent for topcoating with COLOR INTERMIX or as a clear overcoat. It will also help cold flex, impact, and mar resistance. It's ideal to use with the Graystone dirty paint system for colormatching high line leathers as it helps add an extra measure of transparency. The downside is that you risk applying too much coating, resulting in too high a finish profile. Again, we must stress that if you are used to working with a pint of lacquer, you have to develop different skills to apply only a few ounces. You may have to resort to using lots of water and applied heat for drying until you become familiar with this high solids system.

You will use the same skills as in Intermediate Recoloring but you can also employ most of the tricks used in auto body painting. Think of this as a base coat/clear coat system or not, depending on what effect you want to achieve.

Clean and prep the surface to be recolored using diluted Multi Clean and water as above. Light sanding will improve adhesion. Use of a plastic primer/tie coat such as duPont Midcoat 222S is often advisable especially on new crash parts. Make sure plastic primed surfaces are thoroughly dry before coloring.

Use ProFlex COLOR INTERMIX to match colors and shoot the color base coat as you would in Intermediate work. Glister Pearl or Gold may be added at this point or you can add them later to an equal mix of the COLOR INTERMIX and ProFlex HIBASE for better efficiency. The mixture is an excellent topcoat for color depth and transparency. Dry your application with gentle heat if necessary. You may clear coat with straight ProFlex HIBASE for the base coat/clear coat effect and excellent weatherability and UV resistance. Adjust gloss as required.

COLOR MATCHING If you are reading this you should already possess excellent colormatching skills. However, there are a few adjustments you may need to make. First, some high solids colors dry a shade darker than you expect from the wet match. You'll need to adjust accordingly and dry your spot test with a heat gun if necessary. Second, the Brite yellow and orange are transparent with this system. Those of you who have used our systems the last 25 years know we never used or needed a pure, opaque brown. You may want one now so we've provided it.

Many of us have never used a Brite red either, relying instead on half opaque orange and half violet for the opaque stoplight red. That is no longer so easy because the new orange is not opaque. The following table shows colormatching formulas for a variety of popular named colors found off the shelf. If you're used to simpler matching based on moly orange, chrome yellow, and violet, these formulae will appear far too complex. They are complex because we have avoided using any orange so that old line users are introduced to the new brown.

The key to getting the best results is minimizing the amount of material you work with at any one time. Several hundred users have achieved excellent results over the last year. Use their experience to avoid mistakes. Read over these notes a few times. You will be very pleased with the results when you start using these products. User's find that gravity feed air brushes, gravity feed detail guns, or quality HVLP systems are definitely the way to go. Atomizers can be used for spot repairs but avoid heavy coatings that waste material and cause later problems. Start by doing your color matches in shot glasses or similar small containers until you're used to using very little volume. Dry time is fast if small quantities are used.

1. LOBASE is rarely used and then only on raw completely stripped very soft leather. Never (or almost never) use LOBASE clear by itself. You'll get tacky results. IT SHOULD ALMOST ALWAYS BE MIXED WITH AN EQUAL PORTION OR MORE OF COLOR INTERMIX BEFORE USE. Then color coat with the color match alone.

2. For first coats it is often useful to wipe or rub-in the first color application. Use a water dampened wipe or sponge.

3. Users report that much of their work now relies on brush or wipe on application only, especially on trim pieces such as black-out window trim, etc.

4. Try using FLAT and SLIP in HIBASE doped with your final color match to achieve look and feel results. Try to minimize SLIP and make up for it with FLAT if possible to achieve slip.

5. Don't be afraid to dilute your color matches extensively with HIBASE to obtain transparency and reduce pigment loading.

6. Wet color matches typically darken one shade on drying. Wipe on a tiny amount of your color match with a pipe cleaner and dry it instantly with a heat gun to check this effect.

7. Try to minimize the use of any solvent based prep product. Use water diluted MULTI CLEAN alone if possible. Despite appearances, solvents can take several hours to dry thoroughly. They may not be compatible with ProFlex and you may set up a vapor barrier that interferes with adhesion.

8. On hard pliable plastics use a good quality plastic primer. Suggestions: duPont Mid Coat 222-S, Sherwin Williams Plastic Primer - Tie Coat, Montana Bonding Clear.

9. Dry sand for leather preparation. Follow with dilute Multi Clean to wipe away sanded material. Rinse with pure water (spray & wipe) and dry with heat gun before color is applied.

Our primary concern with all our customers is health. Do not let expense or time deter you from taking the extra steps to provide a safe work environment. Always work in well ventilated surroundings wearing a mask and gloves.

Drying time: If the dry time is too slow this means the application of color is too heavy per pass. We never like to see anyone push a product beyond its normal application. You can speed up drying time with mild heat, (Note there is a big difference between dry and cured). The material may appear dry to touch, but actual curing will not be complete for up to 24 hours. Many have been surprised by too fast a dry time in hot weather-indicated by rough finish or strange adhesion. These indicate the film former dried too much in the space between the gun and the surface. Maintain a low profile at all times (i.e. thin). On large surface re-dye jobs we recommend that first color applications be sponge applied, and rubbed in, followed with spray application of a second light touch up coat. Many users will sponge apply both color coats then spray apply HIBASE with FLAT mixture as finish coat. This not only gives superior coverage, feel and wear, but also speeds up the process and reduces masking.

Color Coverage: Choose a color that has not been used for three to four week. Shake well. Empty bottle completely. Note the amount of pigment still at the bottom of the bottle. Pro Flex colors are 500% higher solids than lacquer bases. Because of this, colors will have poor coverage if not frequently used and properly agitated. There are exceptions, in that if users are trying to cover a Black with Brite Red, a primer or concealing coat of white or medium gray can be applied. If you have read this Tech Sheet you will note that the application of FLOW in water (applied in your color match) will help eliminate orange peel effect, especially over freshly repaired areas. Another method is to lightly preheat the repair areas then wipe or spray apply a thin coat of your BARTEX while the area is still warm. The idea is to prime the area to maintain even flow of color. Dry to touch. Proceed with a moderate coat of BARTEX, dry, and apply color until repair area disappears. Grain with Iron to obtain outstanding results. Do not over heat. You can obtain good results using the heat gun repair method, and grain directly to repair color coat. DO NOT PILE ON COLOR.

Skinning and clogging spray unit: This is a problem that can be avoided. Filter your flat prior to adding to color mix. For best results pour your color or flat through a fabric dimple (NOT PAINT FILTERS) into the receiving cup and squeeze the excess through with gloved fingers. Also flush your spray unit with diluted Multi Clean, then water before laying your unit down for any period of time. We still highly recommend the gravity feed units. Their cost is peanuts especially as people using them have no clogging, and use less material. The Wagner (HVLP) sprayer is highly recommended by many users. As mentioned above, by sponge applying your color, much of this problem can be eliminated. Still you must filter your color. Use Prevals if you insist, but why spend the money? It's not necessary. For spot repairing many users have turned to using Sure Shots atomizers. This is an aluminum canister that is available in all sizes. Basically it's a large refillable Preval, but with superior atomization. Do yourself a favor, call Grainger at 800-473-3473. Ask for a catalog and locate Pneumatic Tools.

Call backs (adhesion): As always, regardless of color system being used, prepping your work area is like wetting your hair before you apply shampoo. The intermix system is no different. Thorough, excellent prepping is essential. STAY AWAY FROM USING HARSH SOLVENTS. Mainly for your health, but also as described in this Tech Sheet, solvent will evaporate slowly and if trapped beneath your color, failure occurs. Use 600-700 grit sand paper to sand the immediate area for spot repairs and the entire surface for total recoloring. Sand quickly to just open the surface, wipe clean with Multi Clean/water solution, and follow with pure water. TAPE TEST!!! Apply thin multiple application of color. TAPE TEST!!! Topcoat high wear areas with HIBASE. TAPE TEST!!! Avoid excessive use of LOBASE for leather applications, no more than 20% to color rubbed in on damaged high flex areas. We encourage limited use of LOBASE.

Color matching: Is there a difference in matching colors with a water born system vs. a solvent base? It takes about two hours to master the difference. Is color matching harder with water born system? Depends on what side of the fence you started on. You must dry out the matching color to get a true color, dab on tiny amounts and blow dry. Note that some water born color matches dry slightly darker.

Hard Pliable Plastics: For hard pliable plastics you'll need a primer that will ensure adhesion. There are several plastic primers that we recommend. DuPont Plastic Prep and duPont Mid-Coat 222-S, Sherwin Williams Plastic Primer - Tie Coat, Montana Bonding Clear. Some ProFlex users have reported using BARTEX as an adhesion promoter and are having exciting results on Chevy Van interiors. The BARTEX must be applied as a thin coat and dried to tacky state. Then color.

Recoloring Cloth Material: As described in this Tech Sheet, we recommend thinning color using distilled water for cloth applications. Users also have reported applying color with added slip. Up to 3% can be added, but with extreme care and assurance that over-loading does not occur. The 3% is maximum and ideally should never be achieved.

ProFlex Leather Compounds

Using nominal heat, the following three products have been developed to produce exceptional leather repairs. With our newest addition to the ProFlex Leather Line, you can perform excellent leather repairs on cuts, holes, and deep or superficial scratches. The following three products have been exclusively developed for use with our ProFlex Intermix Color System. They are ProFlex Leather Grain & Primer, Leather Hide Weld (plus Additive), and Leather Skin .

Before you begin working with these new products you will need the following key items:

Iron with #5 Shoe	Non Stick Mat
Isopropyl Alcohol	Chill Bar
Sandpaper (240 to 600 grit)	Multi Clean
Grain Mat (4" x 8")	Heat Gun
Flex Solv	Bucket of Ice

ProFlex Leather Grain & Primer, ProFlex Leather Hide Weld, and ProFlex Leather Skin are introduced in sequence of application on a hole- through repair, which will be our example repair. Later we will note the alternatives in application depending on the type of repair encountered. ProFlex Hide Weld will eliminate the use of CAÕs on many applications. Hide Weld provides excellent adhesion while maintaining the leathers original pliability and feel. As with any repair we can never stress enough how important prepping is. However, we will not be covering this and would assume you know how.

Scenario: We have encountered a cigarette burn that has burned it's way completely through exposing the underlying foam. After prepping and cutting away brittle and charred material we are now working with a _" hole. Place a subpatch material underneath the hole and assure that it's diameter extends at least _" from the edges of the hole. We highly suggest that a linen material such as a handkerchief or similar be used to provide added strength. A light piece of leather will also serve well by placing underneath repair area with suede side up. Glue in place using your ProFlex Hide Weld. Gluing: apply thin amounts to both surfaces and dry with gentle heat until tacky. Make sure to spread adhesive thoroughly so that an even application is achieved to both surfaces. Press surfaces together and continue to dry using moderate heat form the heat gun until you are confident adhesive has set enough to hold subpatch in-place. You may also carefully apply heat using the iron with a #5 shoe to help dry the adhesive. Once the adhesive has dried apply the following steps.

ProFlex Grain & Primer

Sand the surface area after placing the sub-patch. Using a Q-Tip, swab the repair area with the ProFlex Grain & Primer to the leather edges and approximately a full inch in diameter surrounding the repair area. Gently dry with heat gun using your hand as a heat gauge.

ProFlex Hide Weld & Additive

Remove the amount of Leather Hide Weld you estimate will be used for your repair (keep lid and jar edge clean). Make your mixture of 7 parts Hide Weld to 1 part Additive. Mix thoroughly until a mixture is evenly blended to make a spreadable application. You may find it necessary to mix in a shot glass to achieve a smooth thick creamy compound that will apply evenly. Using your pallet knife, apply the Hide Weld/Additive Mixture directly into hole. Fill until the void is completely filled. Allow for a slight rise in the repair, then when you sand Hide Weld it can be leveled to leather surface. Several thin applications with intermediate drying works well. Should you find that the hole is larger than what you feel comfortable filling with using Hide Weld, we recommend inserting a leather plug. Ideally, this plug should fit snugly so that the Hide Weld and Additive mixture can be used as a topcoat application. Dry completely using heat gun, or Iron with a #5 Shoe. Be sure to chill using an Ice Cold Chill Bar.

Once the Leather Hide Weld and Additive mixture has dried (tack free) you can proceed with sanding. Start out with using a light grit sand paper (600 grit) working your way to a heavier grit (240 grit). This is done to avoid pulling compound initially. You'll find with experience that initial sanding should begin slowly and then as you proceed, the skin of the compound becomes as tough and resilient as the original leather it was applied to. Continue sanding until your are satisfied with the compound being flush and even overall. Remember to finish sanding using your light grit sandpaper to maintain a leather glove feel. If you note problem area apply thin layers of ProFlex Leather Skin.

ProFlex Leather Skin

Before each application shake vigorously or stir well. Apply even light coats (foam paint brush works best). Dry each coat with your heat gun, again use your hand as a heat gauge. When material turns a chalk white, cool with Chill Bar and repeat 2 to 3 times until satisfied with coverage. Chill Bar must be ice cold. Allow it to set for 3 to 4 minutes prior to sanding.

Begin sanding using 600 grit sand paper, work your way up to a grit you find that is removing yet allows Leather Skin to fill in any imperfections within the repair area. Again, finish with your lightest grit sand paper to maintain a glove feel finish.

ProFlex Leather Grain & Primer In order for this next step to be successful your Chill Bar must be ICE COLD to create a perfect grain match. You can reproduce the grain using two different graining techniques.

Graining Technique 1: Naturally Grained High Quality Finishes

Apply your Grain & Primer directly to your grain mat. Your grain mat should be free of any foreign particles and free of any harsh solvents. Estimate on your grain mat an area that if placed on top of your repair would fully cover approximately _" to _" larger in diameter surrounding your entire repair area. You may find it necessary to apply (spray) a thin coat of Isopropyl Alcohol to the grain mat surface before applying Grain & Primer. This will act as a release agent. You can apply enough of the dominant hue of your Intermix Color directly into the amount of Grain & Primer you will be using. This will aid in texture, and cosmetic color finish. Using a heat gun, heat while still brushing on Grain & Primer to assure it dries to a even thin coat. Take care not to brush too long and pull dry material. Continue applying 4 to5 coats in the same manner until you have developed a semi dry smooth coating. It may still be tacky, but not wet (Ideally it should accept your finger print with ease).

With your Ice Cold Chill Bar ready, place your grain mat over the repair, size it up to surround your repair evenly. Place your Non Stick Mat on top. Using your iron with #5 shoe, begin to heat up your grain mat and by using a count of three, step to an adjacent area until entire graining area has been evenly heated. Immediately apply your ICE COLD CHILL BAR to heated area and gently rub area with crown side down then turn over and lie flat and allow Chill Bar to sit for 5-7 minutes. Make sure repair area is cold. Not cool, but cold. If the grained area is stuck down this is a good indication you have applied sufficient heat. Gently lift a corner of your grain mat. Pull back until you feel resistance and continue until it begins to let go from the Grain surface. If you notice the edges of your grain material are lifting you can reapply heat once you have lifted the mat entirely off. If you notice Grain is lifting further into the repair, stop and reapply heat. Be careful not to overheat as this will cause Grain to bubble and pit. If you are satisfied with Grain coverage apply Intermix Color and finish.

Graining Technique 2: Artificially Deep Grained Leather Finishes.

The second technique is to apply the Grain & Primer directly to your repair area. Make sure you have recolored your Grain & Primer with Intermix dominant hue. Apply Grain & Primer ( foam brush) directly to your repair area. Apply 3 to 4 coats as needed, drying each coat. Apply heat while still brushing area to assure it dries to an even thin coat. Take care not to brush too long and pull dry material. Continue applying until you have developed a semi dry smooth coating.

It may still be tacky, but not wet (Ideally it should accept your finger print with ease). Continue with instruction above that describe applying grain mat and heat. Remember, have your ICE COLD CHILL BAR ready!

Moderate To Superficial Damage

Prep repair area prior to performing any of the following repairs. For slits, scratches, and scuffs you will not always find it necessary to use ProFlex Leather Hide Weld & Additive. Or you might find it necessary to apply a thin coat or two, then sand. Many times you will be working with Leather Skin and Grain & Primer only. The idea is to work with these products and understand their individual limitation and strengths. Here are some examples of applications...

Superficial Slits, Scratches, and Scuffs: Apply thin coats (using a foam brush) of Leather Skin. Generally three even thin coats are enough. Dry each coat individually, again using your hand as a heat gauge. Allow the third coat to set until Chill Bar has made it cold to the touch. Begin sanding using 600 grit paper, working your way up to a grit you find that is removing yet allows Leather Skin to fill in any imperfections within the repair area. Again, finish with your lightest grit sand paper to maintain a glove feel finish. If satisfied that area is flush, proceed with applying ProFlex Leather Grain & Primer. Use either Graining Technique 1 or 2 depending on leather finish. Remember have your ICE COLD CHILL BAR READY.

Cuts, Deep Slits, and Gouges: Using ProFlex Leather Hide Weld & Additive mixture apply a thin even coat with pallet knife. Dry using your hand as a heat gauge. Apply a second coat and dry. Be sure to allow a slight rise in the repair, when you sand the Hide Weld it can be leveled to leather surface. It is important to realize that you cannot rush this product. The more time you allow it to set without added heat the stronger your repair will become. Follow with steps as described above using Leather Skin, and Grain & Primer. Again the Graining technique will be determined by leather finish you are working with.

These products are suited for high margin applications. If any of you should feel the need for training in leather restoration or help to fine tune your skills we can direct you to professionals throughout the country that will provide quality training.