To: Vinyl Repair Professionals
Subject: Iron Repair Technique with ProFlex Colors

Here is how to make the most of the iron, gun, and mesh when using the new ProFlex color system. First, thoroughly clean the repair area with diluted Multi Clean Solution or Flex Solv, if necessary, to remove the thin clear topcoat. (See Tech Sheet 44 Multi Clean and Tech Sheet 40 Flex Solv). While the iron is heating, apply B-2 Compound to seal the exposed foam and fill voids. If the exposed foam area is larger than a quarter, place a piece of thin vinyl underlay beneath the surface to cover the foam. In most cases it is not necessary to glue the underlay in place. The purpose of the underlay is to keep the B-2 Compound from laying directly on the exposed foam. Cure the B-2 in layers with the heat gun to level the surface. If the damaged area does not have a large area of exposed foam or there are no deep voids to fill, then skip this step and go directly to the mesh application.

Select the type of mesh appropriate for the vinyl you are repairing (e.g. Fine for thin vinyls, Super or Medium for dash and armrest repairs. Refer to Tech Sheet 22: Iron-in Mesh). Cut the mesh to cover the repair area allowing about 1/2" on all sides. Always trim the mesh so the woven strands cross the cut at a 45 degree angle.

Place the mesh over the damaged area and tack down with a light tap of the iron. Next place the non-stick mat over the mesh covered repair. Lay the iron on the non-stick mat with light pressure. Let it sit in one spot for 2 to 5 seconds the first time to determine the amount of heating the damaged piece can take. Move the iron in a circular motion and lift it off the mat. As you remove the iron, apply the Chill Bar with your other hand. This will melt the mesh into the vinyl. The mesh does not have to be imbedded below the surface of the damaged area, just flush. Apply enough heat so no loose fibers stick out.

Next smear on a layer or two of B-2, curing with the heat gun between layers. Don't bother to spend too much time smoothing the layers between cures. Leave it with small ridges. Next spray on a light coating of ProFlex BARTEX. (This can be colored with the dominant hue using the ProFlex COLOR INTERMIX; refer to Tech Sheet 50). Use the heat gun to dry it rapidly just dry to touch. ProFlex BARTEX is designed enhance graining, prevent pinholing, and prevent preferential soiling of the repair. Paint the repair using ProFlex COLOR INTERMIX (properly color matched). Use heat gun to dry it only to the touch. See Tech Sheet 50: ProFlex Color System.

Grain the colored repair using texture mat, non-stick mat, and No. 6 Iron. But here is the secret: let the iron dwell, with little more pressure than the weight of the iron, until you feel the vinyl soften. Then step the iron over to the adjacent space to be grained. Don't slide it, but step it. That is, when you move the iron always lift it slightly to next position. This is what prevents pinholing and bands. You can roll the Chill Bar (crowned face) over the mats to cool the repair before removing the mats. A wet rag can be used to cool the small difficult areas. By the way, proper texture mats must be paper thin to allow heat transfer from the iron to the repair as well as rapid cooling. If the repair pulls up when the mats are removed you are not cooling nearly enough. See Tech Sheet 23: Texture Mats.

After cooling, if the surface isn't flat or matched to the surrounding contour, repeat the iron procedure using a little more or less pressure. If there is some slight banding around the repair, use a little W-2 or W-3 Spray Grain to completely disguise it. To finish off the repair, paint again (with exactly the same color, or darken it slightly to obtain the print coat two-tone effect). Use ProFlex FLAT, ProFlex SLIP, or ProFlex HIBASE added to your final spray body to enhance final cosmetics and feel. Again see Tech Sheet 50 for more information on using the ProFlex coloring products.

The most important point in the Iron Repair Method is the need for patience and practice with this technique. Stick with it. You'll find yourself doing invisible repairs a very large portion of the time.

Despite the length of the above description, the actual time spent on each repair is minimal. The quality is consistently better than straight heat gun repairs and the actual time spent on the repairs is significantly less with the combined heat gun and iron technique. You will rarely need a subordinate patch and, because the repair is colored before texturing, finished cosmetics are improved significantly.